In the vibrant tapestry of India’s cultural heritage, traditional textile crafts have long been woven into the fabric of everyday life. From the colorful hues of Panja’s Kes weaving to the intricate embroidery of Himachal Pradesh’s Chamba Rumal, each craft tells a story of centuries-old tradition and skilled craftsmanship passed down through generations. I am. However, in the face of modernization and changing consumer tastes, many of these ancient crafts faced extinction. But against all odds, a resurgence is underway, fueled by a new appreciation for tradition, sustainability and craftsmanship. This World Heritage Day, explore his five ways India’s textile craft is experiencing a renaissance, from artisan co-operatives and sustainable fashion initiatives to designer collaborations. Through these revitalization efforts, we witness the enduring legacy of India’s textile heritage and the power of community, creativity and innovation to breathe new life into ancient traditions.
Craft 1: Himru weaving
Himroo weaving, which originated in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, has a rich history dating back to the Mughal era. Traditionally, Himru fabric was woven from a blend of cotton and silk yarns and featured intricate patterns and motifs. Once favored by royalty and elites, Himru has faced extinction in recent years, especially in the face of post-independence decline. But a revival movement led by passionate individuals and organizations is breathing new life into this time-honoured craft.
revival:
In recent years, efforts to revive Himru have become more active. One such initiative of his is the Himroo Revival Project undertaken by his LoomKatha, a social enterprise dedicated to empowering handloom weavers. The project aims to reignite interest in Himru by putting decommissioned looms back into operation and training a new generation of weavers.
Designer Mamasa Tulli also contributed to Himroo’s revival. With a passion for handlooms and craftsmanship, Mamatha embarked on a mission to breathe new life into this age-old craft. Mamatha worked with Shailaja Ramyaiya to find weavers with knowledge of Himru weaving techniques. Through her own label, Mamasa Her Trulli’s Designer Her Studio, she aims to create a platform for weavers to showcase their talents and preserve their traditions. Today, Himru is used not only to make home linen but also to make clothing such as shawls and jackets due to its thickness and durable qualities.
Image source: rugrabbit.com, Instagram/loomkatha
Craft 2: Kunbiori
In the vibrant tapestry of Goa’s cultural heritage, Kunbi Sari stands as a testament to the rich heritage of the indigenous Kunbi community. Simply woven and decorated with distinctive checkerboard patterns, the Kunbi saree reflects the spirit of a community deeply connected to the land. Despite facing challenges and the threat of obscurity, efforts led by artists and designers are bringing the Kunbi sari back into the spotlight, celebrating its heritage and the artisans who have continued to protect this age-old craft. pays homage to.
revival:
In modern times, Kunbi sarees are making a comeback and Kunbi sarees are re-emerging in the field of fashion and clothing. Designer Wendell Rodricks’ line of Kunbi sarees puts a fresh spin on the craft by injecting a variety of colors that differ from the traditional red hue. Similarly, artist Clarice Vaz’s recent exhibition ‘Ancestral Weave’ paid homage to the Kunbi community through art, showcasing the intricate beauty of Kunbi sarees printed on canvas. She focused on the stories and struggles of the Kunbi people through her work and highlighted their contribution to Goa’s culture and identity.
Image source: gaatha.com, livemint.com
Craft 3: Kesu weaving
Kes is a thick cotton fabric that once held an important place in Punjabi households and culture. Versatile as bedspreads, shawls, and waistbands, they reflect the resourcefulness of rural areas. The partition of India in 1947 dealt a severe blow to the kes weaving tradition, especially the majnu kes, which was woven primarily in western Punjab (now Pakistan). With the emigration of skilled weavers to West Punjab, this weaving tradition came to an abrupt halt, resulting in its near extinction on the Indian side of the border.
revival:
Kes Project and local brand Balwar are collaborating to revive the traditional craft of Kes weaving from Punjab with the collection ‘Memoir’. Through this collection, they reimagine traditional textiles, incorporate natural dyes, and collaborate with skilled women weavers to create Kes pieces that capture the essence of Punjab’s textile heritage. ‘Memoir’ offers a poetic symphony of shared memories and heartfelt craftsmanship, inviting people to experience the warmth of Punjab through reimagined design.
Image source: museumofmaterialmemory.com, Instagram/thekhesproject
Craft 4: Chambalmal embroidery
Chamba Rumal embroidery is a centuries-old craft originating from the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh. Traditionally, chamba rumal was a square piece of cloth with intricate embroidery, featuring mythological motifs and floral patterns. However, with the decline in patronage and changing consumer tastes seen after independence, this elaborate embroidery technique was in danger of disappearing.
revival:
Chambas, which were once primarily given as gifts or used as ritual coverings, are being looked at in a new way. Initiatives like Rumals of Chamba work directly with local artisans to create modern interpretations of Rumal embroidery. Artisans are engaged to sustain the craft and new product ranges such as roomals, wall hangings and apparel are created to bring new dimensions to the craft while preserving its traditional essence.
Image source: sahapedia.org, Instagram/rumalofchamba
Craft 5: Handloom Khadi
Khadi, or hand-spun, hand-woven cotton textiles, holds a special place in India’s cultural heritage and freedom movement. Traditionally, khadi was spun by hand using a charkha and woven into fabric on a handloom, symbolizing self-reliance and resistance to British colonial rule. However, with the advent of mechanized weaving, khadi production has decreased significantly. But today, textiles and crafts have completely turned around and he has become one of the well-known and commonly used handloom textiles in the country.
revival:
Currently, government-backed Khadi initiatives and sustainable fashion brands are working to promote Khadi as a sustainable and eco-friendly fabric. These initiatives ensure the continued relevance of this iconic Indian textile by investing in khadi production and promoting khadi products at home and abroad.
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Image source: irp.cdn-website.com, Pinterest.com
