Head west to the West Coast of Wales for a road trip adventure off the beaten path. The West Coast of Wales is packed with things to do and see – here are six of our favourites.
Wherever you choose along Britain’s diverse coastline, you’ll find fishing villages, port towns and seaside holiday spots, and while many of these are certainly on the well-trodden path, if you want a coastal adventure less travelled, head to the westernmost coast of Wales.
This moderately long and diverse road trip will take you to a historic and coastal site, far from the bright city lights and well-maintained attractions of the standard tourist routes.
There are plenty of castles, ruins from the country’s Celtic past, coastal panoramas and photo opportunities along the way, so if you can, stay a few more days.
Day 1: Crossing the River Severn to Cymru
It doesn’t get any easier than driving into South Wales from London, the airport or the M25. Just follow the M4 west to Severn Crossing and there you have it: Croeso y Cymri – Welcome to Wales!
Chepstow is a great first stop after crossing the broad river border of the M48 – plan around three hours with breaks on the motorway, or take the scenic route and join the A4 at Hungerford, passing through Marlborough and Avebury to Chippenham (if you haven’t seen Avebury Circle it’s definitely worth a visit).
Chepstow town centre has two classic mid-priced hotels: The Beaufort on the square and the Castle Hotel beneath the walls of 11th-century Chepstow Castle. The tourist information office in the castle car park will be happy to advise you on a range of other accommodation options.
In addition to one of the oldest surviving stone castles in Britain, visit the local Chepstow Museum across the road and enjoy the arcades and alleyways of the old town centre. Tintern Abbey is also just around the corner.
Townhouse, Chepstow, Wales, UK
Day 2: Destination Pembrokeshire
Heading west on the M4 this morning, it’s just a few minutes’ drive to Caerleon, one of Britain’s most significant Roman archaeological sites. Once the legionary fort of Isca Augustus, Caerleon’s Roman amphitheatre is one of the most complete in the world and its Roman barracks are unparalleled in Britain. You can discover all that history at the National Roman Legion Museum.
Continue west on the M4, admiring the rugged coastline that leads to the industrial south. After Newport, Cardiff and Swansea, the motorway ends at the A48 and Carmarthenshire. At St Clears, detour just a few miles to Laugharne and its breathtaking estuary. Visit Laugharne Castle, cliff-top site of poet Dylan Thomas’ boathouse, and rest up at Brown’s Hotel, where Thomas would drink with local friends and fans from further afield.
Pembrokeshire, a peninsula in the southwest of Wales, is a great place to stay overnight or spend another day, or maybe even a little longer to walk the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, along some of the most beautiful coastline in Britain.
If you want to experience a traditional Welsh seaside resort and a medieval walled town, spend the night in Tenby. Alternatively, follow the A487 to St. David’s, a village of 1,800 inhabitants that is the smallest city in the UK. The ancient cathedral dedicated to the patron saint of Wales adds to the town’s status. Be sure to visit the 12th-century St. David’s Cathedral and the ruins of the once elegant medieval Bishop’s Palace.
Beautiful views of Tenby harbour, colorfully painted houses and Castle Hill
Day 3: West Coast to North Wales
This morning’s route turns north from Tenby or St David’s, towards Fishguard, where generations of travellers have boarded ferries to Ireland. The A487 runs north along the coast to Snowdonia, but don’t expect to drive at main road speeds; the road is narrow and constantly twisting, and the coastal views are too spectacular to miss.
A convenient mid-way point and daytime destination is Aberystwyth – Aberystwyth University doubles the town’s population with 10,000 students – stretch your legs and enjoy lunch on the popular beach, pier and adjacent pretty shopping street.
At Machynlleth, a further 20 miles north of Aberystwyth, the landscape becomes more rugged as you enter Snowdonia National Park. 12 miles north of Dolgellau, the A487 turns west to follow the coast, while the A470 heads north over the slate mountains around Blaenau Ffestiniog. If you’re pressed for time, follow this mountain road to Betws-y-Coed and stay overnight to explore the Conwy Valley.
Don’t expect to be able to drive at highway-like speeds, though: the roads are narrow and constantly twisting, and the scenery along the coast is spectacular.
The port town of Portmadog is just a few miles west and is a popular destination with a full range of tourist services in season. If you have time, be sure to visit the famous Portmeirion, a fantasy Italianate village designed by architect Sir Clough Williams Ellis, or take the narrow-gauge steam railway to the slate quarries.
Bos y Gest, Porthmadog, North Wales
Day 4: Snowdonia
One day is not enough in Snowdonia, so inevitably you are faced with a choice: Or spend another day nearby. This morning follow the A487 to Caernarfon to visit the walled town and magnificent Caernarfon Castle, founded by Edward I and where Prince Charles was created Prince of Wales.
Next, follow the A4086 to Llanberis and Mount Snowdon. Llanberis is the starting point for all excursions to the summit of the highest mountain in England or Wales. If you’re not hiking, you can also take the Snowdon Mountain Railway to the summit. Continue west over Llanberis Pass to Betowsey Coed.
Stay in the popular mountain village and mingle with tourists and locals tonight at the Royal Oak Bistro, or continue your journey along the river to Conwy.
The view from Linau Minville to Snowdon on a beautiful calm autumn day.
Day 5: Conwy, Llandudno and Great Orme
A must-visit in the Conwy Valley in spring or summer is Bodnant Garden – this magnificent National Trust garden is said to be the most beautiful in Wales, and for good reason.
Explore the charming walled town beneath Conwy Castle, the little town centre with its colourful architecture and the pier where the River Conwy flows into the Irish Sea, and visit the popular seaside town of Llandudno across the estuary, a famous holiday destination since Victorian times.
Take the half-mile walk along the pier to Colwyn Bay, or take the tram from Llandudno to the top of Great Orme Head for fantastic views along the coast. Conwy and Llandudno have a wide range of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to B&Bs.
The winding roads of Great Orme, North Wales
Day 6: Further Up and Further In
If you have another day in North Wales, you could take a drive along the coast to Angelsey Island.
Cross the Menai Strait to visit the elegant house of Plas Newydd, home to the Marquess of Anglesey on the strait’s banks. Check out nearby picturesque Beaumaris Castle. Or head east on the A55 into Cheshire. Take a quick look around Chester’s historic centre before returning your rental car and catching the train back to London. If you’d prefer to continue your drive, turn south to Shrewsbury and follow the A49 along the March border and Offa’s Dyke.
Decisions, decisions.
*First published in June 2016.
