This article was created by National Geographic Traveler (UK).
There are many good reasons to visit Istanbul, from iconic attractions like Hagia Sophia and Basilica Cistern to the enchanting rhythms of its bustling districts and the tranquility of its islands. It’s not hard to see why it was recently named the most visited city in the world. But its distinguishing feature is definitely its cuisine. The city has been home to an impressive and vibrant dining scene for over 2000 years. While many travelers are limited to the prix-fixe menu at Historic Peninsula, there is more depth to the cuisine for those willing to venture beyond the tourist menu. Kebab shop. Here are nine of the city’s best restaurants that excite locals and offer travelers something unforgettable.
Chef Sinem Ozler’s second Seraf restaurant, located in the Vadi district of northern Istanbul, offers an elevated culinary exploration of traditional Turkish flavors. A highlight of the menu is the iceli kofte, a delicate shell made of bulgur wheat stuffed with onions and minced meat and served over a velvety, tangy yoghurt. Choose from a tasting menu that includes wine pairings by expert sommelier Sabiha Apaydin. High standards of service in a thoughtfully designed space ensure a flawless dining experience from start to finish.
The fine-dining Seraf restaurant offers elegant interpretations of Turkish classics. Typical dishes include İşli kofte, a household favorite in southeastern Turkey, and versions of the Levantine dish kibbeh.
Photo courtesy of Seraph Restaurant
This famous kebab restaurant is located in the historic Strüce district, once home to Istanbul’s slaughterhouses, overlooking the calm waters of the Golden Horn. One of the joys of dining here is the warmth of second generation owner Ilgin’s Kaya. He can often be seen patrolling the floor from table to table, anticipating the needs of his customers. But the food is also exceptional, with the kitchen cooking up some of the city’s finest offal and his buttery bulgur pilaf. For those looking to indulge in offal, perhaps the best starting point is the uikuluk (sweetbread) kebab. It is grilled over charcoal until the outside is perfectly crispy and the inside is juicy.
3. Dates with Roquefort Cream at Smelt & Co
A small facade and modest door on Barratt’s cobbled streets mark the entrance to Smelt and Co, one of the city’s most original and elegant restaurants. Inside, you’ll find marble surfaces, terracotta-colored walls, and an impressive collection of plants. Chefs Samet Günes and Sinan Bakkaloğlu make the most of local ingredients and offer a seasonal menu with an emphasis on vegetables and seafood. Although the dishes are rarely the same, there are some that appear on the menu regularly. It’s a date stuffed with Roquefort cream. The intense flavor of the dates, the sharp aroma of the cheese, and the topping of Milt all combine to create something memorable and very popular.
Smelt & Co. offers a quiet and romantic atmosphere to travelers visiting the Barratt area.
Photo courtesy of Smelt & Co.
Chef-owners Günes and Bakkaloğlu have designed a menu that combines a rich variety of seafood with local seasonal ingredients, as seen in dishes such as braised eggplant and octopus.
Photo courtesy of Smelt & Co.
Sahil Restaurant is located along the shores of the Golden Horn in the lively Balat district, once the heart of Istanbul’s Jewish community and now a favorite hangout for photography enthusiasts drawn to its colorful houses. This restaurant embodies the essence of traditional Turkish meyhane. Meihane is an atmospheric place where visitors can sit back and enjoy a variety of meze while sipping a glass of raku, an aniseed spirit. But what sets Sahir apart is the quality of the food, including the Kastamonu-style foraged mushroom meze. Another highlight is the iconic onion dolma (stuffed onions). Onion shells stuffed with spiced rice are slow-cooked in olive oil and broth and served at room temperature with the characteristic burnt blisters on the bottom.
Located in the Kadikoy district on the Asian side of Istanbul, Yanyar Fehmi is a 100-year-old institution. As a typical esnaf locantas (merchant restaurant), we serve batch-cooked dishes designed to nourish the local population, with menus that are seasonal but always available in homes across the country. We offer a variety of comforting dishes that are prepared. Perhaps the most beloved dish here is pasa chorbas (trotter soup). Tender veal trotter stewed in garlic yogurt broth.
Fehmi Sonmezler, who immigrated to Istanbul from Greece in the late 19th century, opened Yanyar Fehmi in 1919. His first hire was Borlhussein, a chef who worked in the kitchen of the Ottoman sultan.
Photo courtesy of Yilmaz Yildirim
Located in the shadow of the 670-year-old Galata Tower, this trendy hotspot serves some of the most sensational Turkish breakfasts in the city. Guests are treated to a sumptuous feast that almost spills off the table, including staples like fresh tomatoes, salted olives, cucumbers, cheese, dips and jams. Many of them are homemade. And then comes the second wave: piping hot eggs, grilled spicy sausages, and heaps of savory and sweet pastries. All this is served with a piping hot samovar of bottomless, aromatic Turkish black tea.
7. Bottarga with Tarama and Routine
Gizem Yavuz, famous throughout the city for his pastries, made his first solo foray into the cafe scene last year with Routin, a cozy spot tucked away on a quaint street in Beyoglu that quickly became a local favorite. When Khan Demirshi joined as chef later that year, Rutin offered an impressive menu featuring dishes such as dry-aged mackerel marinated in house-made soy sauce and lamb shoulder with fermented habanero sauce. I found my culinary identity. But the tarama (whipped salmon roe) spread with its rich texture and apricot-colored local bottarga is definitely a must-try dish. More than just food, this cafe has the feel of a listening bar with a top-notch sound system and carefully selected record selection. Don’t miss the must-attend collaboration His Dining His event, hosted by the city’s famous events collective, Tan Lumisafiri.
Lutin’s Tarama dishes often include seasonal touches, such as sliced strawberries.
Photo courtesy of Gizem Yavuz
Tucked away in a side street of Beyoglu’s fish market, Sakarya Tatlçuş is an unassuming bakery that has been making traditional Turkish sweets and pastries for the past 67 years. Among his pastries – fatty pojassa bread, syrup-slathered baklava, and crispy borek – there is one delicacy that he calls attention to. Aiva Tatlush (poached quince). The quinces are slowly cooked in a sweet sorbet, giving them a ruby red color and a luxurious, almost gooey texture. Served with a generous helping of buffalo milk kaymak (a dairy product similar to clotted cream), this seasonal treat is only available during the quince season, from fall to early spring.
One of Istanbul’s best kept secrets is tucked away in a side street off the upscale Baghdad Street. Cadde Nazende is a self-proclaimed Mediterranean restaurant that has only recently caught the attention of the city’s gourmets. Offal dishes such as grilled sweetbreads, tripe stew and children’s liver are the best, but the masterpiece is the melt-in-your-mouth baby calamari. With an outdoor patio, warm service, and extensive menu, it’s perfect for families.
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