August 28, 2023
By Casey Noenix, Features Reporter
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Amsterdam: European capital battles bad tourist habits (Photo by John Kellerman/Alamy)
The Dutch capital has a population of just 800,000 but attracts 20 million tourists a year, and new policies are now encouraging sustainable tourism for all.
On a recent weekday, sunlight filtered through the clouds high above Amsterdam, casting light on the city’s gabled buildings, arched bridges and English-language signs asking tourists not to urinate in the canals.
Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, is one of Europe’s most touristy cities, with a population of 800,000 and 20 million visitors per year. But despite its world-class museums, stunning green spaces, and tranquil waterways, Amsterdam has also earned a bad reputation as the capital of Europe’s most liberal party, an image it is currently trying to shed.
A series of new measures have been implemented to “preserve quality of life in Amsterdam” while “preventing nuisance tourism.” The city council banned cruise ships from the city center in July to prevent overtourism in the most popular areas. In May it banned cannabis smoking in the entertainment district. And in March it launched a “Stay Away” digital campaign aimed at British men aged 18-35 to try to curb tourists who come for drugs, alcohol and sex.
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Signs throughout Amsterdam warn visitors not to urinate in public (Photo by Carolyn Jenkins/Alamy)
“Tourists remain welcome, but not if they behave badly and cause a nuisance,” Deputy Mayor Sofiane Mbarki said in a statement. Many locals are also fed up with the nuisance tourists and endless crowds, and signs featuring their photos now remind visitors: “We live here.”
Of course, the Dutch capital is much more than just a place to relax: here’s how to experience the best of Amsterdam through creative, sustainable activities that will benefit both tourists and Amsterdammers.
Locals say that enjoying a beer, borrel (small spirits) and borelhapie (fried pastry) at a Braun Café (brown bar) is a quintessential Amsterdam experience. Historic bars like Café De Druef, which has been serving locals for almost 400 years, offer a cozy, traditional atmosphere. The name “brown bar” refers to the brown-paneled interiors common to these pubs, and there is a growing movement to preserve the classic décor.
Mia Bekedam, who lives in Amsterdam, says that despite the rise of trendy bars and restaurants, Brown Bars will never go out of style because they have always remained “original”.
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Amsterdam’s legendary Brown Bar resembles an old-fashioned neighborhood dive bar (Photo: Frans lemmens/Alamy)
“In a beautiful location in Amsterdam, [wait in long] “At Brown Bar, we’re surrounded by living history, so everyone feels at home, whether you’re a regular or a newcomer,” Bekedam says. “It represents all sides of Amsterdam.”
Besides Café Hesp in Amsterdam’s vibrant Oost district, her favourite brown bar is Café Chrome: “It keeps the traditional atmosphere – there’s no music and the staff behind the bar still wear white shirts. It’s a lovely, small, quaint place to have a beer.”
Cycling tours and nearby cities
Stefan van der Meer, owner of Mike’s Bike Tours, says he likes to take tourists on bike rides off the beaten path to surprise them with a different side of Amsterdam. One of his favorite routes is a trip to the NDSM Pier in Amsterdam Noord, a former shipyard district that’s now filled with street art, performance artists, outdoor markets, and local merchants.
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Amsterdam is one of the most bike-friendly destinations in the world (Photo: Anna Dorca/Alamy)
“This is a very creative area, different to Amsterdam’s cute and beautiful city center,” says van der Meer, who has lived in Amsterdam for 16 years.
Van der Meer has mixed feelings about Amsterdam’s new tourism policy, but says he wants to “work with the government to see if we can spread people out a bit more and show them other parts of the Netherlands.” There are many cities near Amsterdam you can cycle to, including his hometown of Gouda and Utrecht, which he recommends visiting.
Amsterdam is renowned for its many world-class museums and galleries. But while tickets to the ever-popular Anne Frank House and Rijksmuseum may be booked up months in advance, the city also has plenty of less crowded attractions. Museum Van Loon is one such place, housed in a preserved 17th-century canalside building that’s now home to contemporary art exhibits.
In contrast to some of Amsterdam’s larger museums, Museum Van Loon offers a “very intimate, very personal” experience, said museum director Gijs Schunselaer. Visitors are pleasantly surprised by the “homely atmosphere” as they wander the house’s historic rooms and gardens, he said.
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Museum Van Loon is a historic mansion and gardens that doesn’t get as crowded as some of Amsterdam’s other tourist attractions (Photo: John Michaels/Alamy)
Schunselaer said exploring Amsterdam’s many off-the-beaten-path attractions allows tourists to slow down and experience the culture they might miss on a bachelorette party or a hectic weekend getaway. “Tourism has its pros and cons, but of course we want as many tourists as possible to visit the museum, enjoy our collection and what we have to offer. It’s all about finding the right balance.”
Day trips from Amsterdam offer even more galleries to explore: Schenk recommends the Kröller-Müller Museum in Otterlo, which has one of the world’s largest Van Gogh collections and a “great sculpture garden”, plus Rotterdam’s Boijmans Van Beuningen Depot, the first art storage facility to open to the public and boasts “great rooftop views”.
Park, picnic, Geserlig
With over 30 parks and gardens in the city, finding green space in Amsterdam is easy. Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) is the city’s largest recreational area, more than three times the size of Manhattan’s Central Park. Rent bikes and canoes, take the kids to the playground, visit a goat farm or take a tram ride. There’s also an open-air theatre, which hosts a number of summer performances.
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Amsterdamse Bos is more than three times the size of Manhattan’s Central Park (Photo: Baarssen Fokke/Alamy)
According to Peter Haasnoot, public media manager for the Amsterdam Forest, the forest is primarily focused on protecting and conserving the local ecosystem and biodiversity. Forest staff balance nature conservation with community activities, including expanding volunteer programs. Haasnoot hopes that visitors can see and experience the importance of being outdoors in Amsterdam. The forest sees 7.5 million visitors a year, and the numbers are growing, he said.
The Amsterdam Forest’s size makes it the perfect alternative to popular tourist green spaces like Vondelpark. With something for everyone to enjoy, from playing fields to picnic areas, it’s easy to foster gezellig (the joy of togetherness), an essential part of the Dutch lifestyle. At the heart of gezellig is a good sense of sociability, so pack a blanket, bring some snacks, and call a friend (or make a new one).
As Amsterdam moves away from its “anything goes” reputation, there’s never been a better time to rediscover the legendary brown bars, spacious outdoor spaces and countless spots that attracted travelers to this cultural hub long before it became party central.
