This article was created by National Geographic Traveler (UK).
A youthful energy is permeating Kosovo. Europe’s youngest country is also home to the region’s youngest population, with 55% under the age of 30. In the two decades since the 1998-1999 Kosovo War, which culminated in the declaration of independence in 2008, Ottoman-era villages have been rebuilt in Byzantine style. The fortifications were restored and nature tourism began, focusing on the mountain ranges that Kosovo shares with its Balkan neighbors.
Prizren, the country’s cultural center during Ottoman rule (1455-1912), remains Kosovo’s most attractive city. A 90-minute drive north, little Peja’s charm lies in its location at the foot of the Rugova Valley. Carved over thousands of years by receding glaciers, this valley has been at the heart of the city’s rebirth as an adventure hub. These contrasting cities offer a balanced flavor of one of Europe’s only Muslim-majority countries, easily accessible from the capital Pristina. Kosovo’s tourism infrastructure is still underdeveloped, but getting around is easy thanks to a reliable bus network.
Day 1: Prizren culture and cuisine
morning
Prizren is home to an interesting collection of museums overlooking the undulating north bank of its namesake river. Let’s start with the Archaeological Museum. The museum houses hundreds of artifacts excavated in and around the city. The collection is housed in his 15th-century former Ottoman bathhouse under the clock tower built in 1912. Climb the 100-odd steps to get a panoramic view of the old town, then head to the Ethnographic Museum on Bujar Godeni Street. Set in one of the city’s few Ottoman-era mansions, an eclectic display of clothing, furniture and antiques offers a window into his 19th-century Prizren, fueled by radical ideas. For further insight, visit the Albanian Federation complex in Prizren. This is the site of the 1878 meeting where local leaders first proposed a unified Albanian state that included present-day Kosovo.
afternoon
Cross the 16th-century stone bridge over the river and enjoy a traditional lunch at Ambient, a restaurant with tables set along the waterfront. Take a short but steep hike past the old town’s high hillside church to the Prizren Fortress, where you can eat tava (a casserole-like dish cooked in a clay pot), then work your way up. The ruins of this fortress, originally built by the Byzantines and expanded by Serbian kings and Ottoman rulers, have been in use since the Bronze Age. Damaged during the Yugoslav Wars, the fortress has since undergone extensive restoration and now offers a glimpse of its former glory. Don’t miss the main building, which displays Neolithic pottery and Ottoman artifacts. Try to time your visit to coincide with sunset, when the city below turns golden. Concerts are sometimes held at the fortress in the summer.
evening
The cafes in Prizren’s old town become lively in the evening. Most locals stick to coffee and cigarettes (macchiatos are popular), but traditional food and drinks are also served. Try the wine. The vineyards of Rahovec, Kosovo’s main wine-producing region, are just 31 miles away. For a break from the meat-heavy dishes that dominate local menus, look for Noja Kuzhine. A homely vegetarian restaurant run by a friendly grandmother and her small team. The daily menu includes everything from delicately spiced falafel wraps to hearty pasta with local cheese and dill. Stop by the chalet-style half-timbered Hotel Prizreni in the heart of the old town. Upgrade to a balcony room for views of the cobblestone streets and babbling river.
The Patriarchal Pec Monastery in Peja has played an important role in preserving Serbian Orthodox traditions.
Photo by Jerome Sid, Alamy Photos
Day 2: History and nature of Peja
morning
Wake up early and head to the town of Peja in the mountainous Rugova region. Destroyed during the Kosovo War, the Old Bazaar has since been rebuilt and is well worth a visit. Stop by the Saturday cheese market at the nearby market, then visit the Peja Museum, a restored former merchant’s house. Inside, artistically reconstructed rooms transport visitors to a bygone era. The ground floor displays sparkling pottery, local textiles, and everyday objects such as coffee grinders and pots, offering further insight into the region. A 10-minute walk west of here is Art Design Restaurant, which straddles a babbling mountain stream and is the perfect place for a relaxing lunch. Traditional snacks include meaty stuffed peppers known as speca dolma.
afternoon
Seven miles north of Peja, White Drin Falls plunges 82 feet from the tip of a rocky outcrop in a mossy gorge. From our modern resort at the base, follow a paved path through the forest to the base of the falls, then climb a series of steep steps to its edge. On your way home, stop by the nearby village of Radavuc and take a peek inside Berdinai Mill. Believed to be over 300 years old, the stone flour mill has been owned by the same family since 1925 and still relies on the river to power its giant millstones. Return to Peja, pick up a map of the cultural trail at the tourist information center opposite the Hotel Dukagini, and explore the city’s 16th-century Kursmuri, which transforms from a crumbling former hammam to one of the city’s oldest buildings. Stroll through the town in search of historical relics, all the way to the mosque.
evening
Relax with a drink in our cheerful bar on William Walker Street. Order a locally sourced, stomach-warming shot of rakia (fruit brandy) or try Vila Peja’s crudo beer, brewed with water from the mountain spring-fed White Drin River. Wine lists tend to be dominated by bottles produced by Kosovo’s largest winery, Stone Castle Vineyards and Winery, but keep an eye out for boutique-run wines such as family-owned Daka Wines. For dinner, explore Peya’s architectural heritage at the Hotel Cla et Zener Butte, a converted mansion, serving traditional cuisine in the restaurant on the ground floor. Kula, with its beautiful masonry and narrow arched windows, recalls the times when houses were built to protect the occupants from enemy incursions.
Climbers attempt the Superatto Via Ferrata route in the Rugova Gorge near Peja.
Photography: Sarah Reid
Outdoor adventures to try
Prizren and Peja are ideal gateways to explore the wild and rugged landscape of southern Kosovo. This is the place to try some of the region’s best outdoor activities and soak up some of the most breathtaking scenery.
via ferrata
The Cursed Mountains are a hotspot for via ferrata (climbing using metal rails bolted to the mountain). Around Peja there are four of his routes up the Rugova Gorge. The lowest and shortest mats are best for children. Nearby, Ali and Spellat follow the same route before splitting in the middle, the latter weaving through a series of caves to reach the summit some 200 meters from the canyon floor. Completed in 2021, Marimangat is Kosovo’s newest and most challenging route. It takes him three hours to complete, as it can be slippery due to the shade. Outdoor Kosovo and Balkan Natural Adventures offer guided tours and rent gear.
hiking
Rising behind Prizren, the Shar Mountains National Park is one of Europe’s newest nature reserves. Infrastructure is minimal, so to organize a guided hike among the park’s alpine lakes and wildflowers, you should contact Prizren-based Shari Ecotours, Balkan Natural Adventures or Outdoor Kosovo . Located at the gateway to the Cursed Mountains, Peja is an established starting point for day and multi-day hikes, including the famous Via Dinarica, which connects seven countries. Day hikes include a trip to Kosovo’s highest peak, 2,656 meters high Jeravica, and a beautiful trek to the two turquoise lakes above the village of Kukište.
cave exploration
Kosovo outdoor activist Fatos Katarozi has played a pioneering role in exploring the Peja region’s vast limestone cave system, making its surreal caverns more accessible to the public in the process. His company is known for the cathedral-like Sleeping Beauty Cave, a network of underground waterways a stone’s throw from Peja’s White Drin Falls, and the more challenging Great His Canyon Cave in Rugova Gorge. We offer tours. Although caving experience is not required for either tour, the Great His Canyon Cave Trekking tour requires sufficient physical fitness to undertake up to four hours of scrambling along underground river channels.
How to do it:
Wizz Air flies direct from London Luton Airport to Pristina International Airport, 72 miles north of Prizren. From there, you can rent a car, taxi, or take a bus to Pristina’s bus terminal, where you can take a bus to Prizren (2 hours).
Buses run frequently daily between Pristina, Prizren and Peja.
There is at least one direct bus every day from Skopje in North Macedonia to Prizren, and the journey takes just over 3 hours. For bus timetables, visit travel.gjirafa.com.
More information:
Prizren trip
Visit to Kosovo
Published in National Geographic Traveler (UK) April 2024 issue.
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