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We all crave authenticity. There are a lot of them here and there, but not in the big cities of Europe. It’s in the countryside, on a road less traveled, in a village where the locals see you and worry you’re lost, writes Jonah Plusky.
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European tourism is losing its appeal.
Consider Venice, a floating city. It used to be serene and incredibly romantic. Now it’s packed with tourists shuffling loudly through Le Merserie, holding phones.
Woody Allen said, “Venice is the most romantic place in the world, but it’s even better when there’s no one around.” In this era of post-pandemic travel crazes fueled by the rise of ultra-low-cost airlines, there’s never a time when there aren’t people around.
The same is true of most modern European metropolises.
Barcelona’s beaches are crowded shoulder to shoulder. In Brussels, Belgian fries with a modest mayonnaise cost around 7.50 euros and have a 20-minute queue.
In Dublin’s Temple Bar, the price of a pint of Guinness is almost extortionate. Vatican City is a never-ending procession that slowly winds its way from the entrance to the Sistine Chapel.
And if you dare to stop to admire the cobblestone alleys of Lisbon’s Alfama district, you’ll find yourself exposed to offers of water, cold beer, hashish and cocaine.
Fortunately, there’s a better way. Anyone of any age or fitness level can walk or cycle comfortably in most parts of Europe.
That way, you’ll save big bucks and deliver authentic hit culture without being tainted by crowds, souvenir shops, and the dreaded “tourist menu.” Of course, traveling this way is good for the environment and your health.
Last week I cycled from London to Brussels. 3 countries in 3 days via France. No training was required for this adventure. Most of the equipment I needed was available cheaply from Amazon.
Yes, it’s going to rain. And the wind at this time of year is kind of ferocious. But you can see Europe from an honest and authentic perspective. How many tourists can say that?
do things that others would never dream of doing
I met a German couple in their 60s cycling a similar route at a slower pace. I passed them on the mostly empty road between Bruges and Ghent.
Although their English was broken, I could tell that we were thinking the same thing. We are both here doing things that our friends and family never dreamed of, and they will never know how beautiful it is.
There was no one there except for the occasional farmer. We only graze cattle, horses, and pigs.
In my experience, this is what most of Belgium actually looks and smells like. You have to leave the big cities to experience miles of flat, wet farmland, quaint brick homes, and the wonderful smell of manure in the air.
Along the way, we stopped in Fern and Aalst, Belgian towns that most people have never heard of. Both had all the goodness of popular medieval towns like Bruges or Ghent, but without too many tourists.
Seriously, when I, a muddy, sweaty Canadian, ducked into a local tea room for some waffles and some much-needed caffeine, I should have seen the look on the faces of local Verners. You won’t get an experience like this in Bruges.
It’s more valuable to take your time than to fly around at full speed.
You should never feel at home while traveling. But if you’re an American in Brussels, you’re likely to see many of your fellow Americans drinking Starbucks and walking down the street.
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You can learn about Dutch-speaking West Flanders on a free walking tour in French-speaking Brussels, or you can go see, hear, and taste for yourself.
The cornerstone of most European backpacking itineraries is speed. If you’re coming from far away, it’s only natural that you want to use your vacation to see as much of the continent as possible.
But with an itinerary that takes you between London, Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam, you risk flying over the best parts of England, France, Belgium and the Netherlands.
In September I walked the Camino de Santiago. In my case, it was a two-week trek through the Portuguese and Spanish countryside, a pilgrimage.
The Camino is a network of trails connecting several cities in France, Portugal, and Spain with Santiago de Compostela, the capital of Spain’s Galicia region.
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My average day on the Camino consists of about 5 hours of walking (although many pilgrims choose to walk at least a little each day), 2-3 stops for coffee and tortillas, and Estrella. We had a few pints and lots of seafood and other local food. .
Unlike in Barcelona, the municipal pilgrim hostels along the Camino cost just 5 to 10 euros per night.
The real thing you’re looking for is there
we were forced to walk. Many of the pilgrims I met were retired and extolled the health benefits of walking daily.
Incorporating exercise into your daily swing during the holidays can also be very beneficial. Type 2 fun is all the rage these days, and for good reason.
Don’t get me wrong, Barcelona is a lovely place. I just don’t think it should be the default choice for a Spanish beach vacation.
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Ocoluna is an hour by train or bus (or 4 hours by bike) from Santiago de Compostela, and frankly, Ocoluna is more authentic and much cheaper.
We all crave authenticity. There are a lot of them here and there, but not in the big cities of Europe. It’s in the countryside, on a road less traveled, in a village where the locals will see you and worry you’re lost.
If you smell fertilizer, you’re probably in the right place.
Jonah Prowsky is a Canadian freelance writer based in London. His work has appeared in major publications such as the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC), the Toronto He Star, and the Calgary He Herald.
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