A few weeks ago, I wrote about how Indian destinations are being squeezed out of the market by price inflation. The example then was Goa, which had a disappointing season. But I might have been talking about Shimla, which saw only half the expected number of tourists this winter.
Why should you consider Bangkok or other Asian travel destinations over domestic destinations? (Freepik) {{^userSubscribed}} {{/userSubscribed}} {{^userSubscribed}} {{/userSubscribed}}
These destinations, I pointed out, were fine during the pandemic when Indians were not able to travel abroad, but now that the Far East has opened up, places like Goa and Shimla seem ridiculously overpriced.
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I decided to put into practice what I was writing about, and went to Bangkok over Christmas, where the tickets and prices were the best. I flew with Air India, and although it was by no means a perfect flight (old equipment, poor and unhelpful in-flight service; essentially, Air India treats Delhi-Bangkok the same as, say, Delhi-Jabalpur), it was still less than two-thirds the price of a flight to Goa. (Both fares are in business class, for comparison; the Bangkok flight is even cheaper in economy class.)
As always, I stayed at the Anantara Siam, a beautiful centrally located hotel formerly known as the Bangkok Four Seasons, built on a peninsula and now run by owner Bill Heineke’s Anantara Group, which boasts large, luxurious rooms and excellent service.
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For comparison, I looked online for prices at Anantara Siam for next week, which is half the price or less than most 5-star hotels in Goa – when I went over Christmas it was a third of that price.
If you want to go to a beach resort, Phuket is even cheaper, with direct flights from Delhi and other cities.
Still, anyone who wants to go to Goa, where the taxi mafia is, and eat overpriced food, must either love Goa unreasonably or have money to spare.
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What about eating in Thailand? In Bangkok, I have a rule: I don’t necessarily eat cheaply at dhabas or on the street, instead I eat in mid-priced restaurants or in shopping malls that pride themselves on being dining destinations, such as Siam Paragon, Central Embassy and EM Quartier.
I always order more than two people can eat (it’s a habit; I try as many dishes as possible in case I have to write about the restaurant), and the bill rarely exceeds Rs 3,000. The same meal in Delhi or Mumbai would cost at least twice as much, assuming you get food of this quality.
We had three extravagant meals in first-class restaurants on this trip (more on that later), but most other meals we had over the five days of our stay were in the 2,000-3,000 rupee range for two people. None of the restaurants were great finds, but they were all well-known and easy to find.
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Kalpapruek: This is one of Bangkok’s oldest and most famous restaurants, frequented by Thais. It’s at the end of Silom Road (they have a branch in a shopping mall) and the food is consistent and reliable (our bill came to Rs 2,800).
Taling Ping: Another Bangkok classic, the branch I’m most familiar with is in Silom but I’ve been to the one at Siam Paragon. The menu features familiar Thai dishes, beautifully prepared.
Hong Bao: A branch of an international chain serving unusual versions of chicken rice and other Chinese dishes. Cheap and tasty.
Smizzle: A burger counter on the funky yet relaxed fifth floor of Central Embassy Mall. Great burgers. Great fries too. Cheaper than anywhere else in India.
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These are the usual places I would recommend.
Then there was the hearty food: Gaggan Anand Restaurant, in its current incarnation, is a 14-seat performance experience, where Gaggan or his head chef will spend a few hours explaining the latest (and greatest) small-plate menu. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience, so it can get pricey (though when you add in the wine by the glass, caviar, and truffles included in the price, it’s cheaper than Wasabi in Mumbai or Le Cirque in Delhi).
When Gaggan himself appears in the film, the fee is bound to go up, but it’s something that only requires a bit of luck to get you in, so if you’re lucky, you’ll get to appear in the film.
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It is open four nights a week, two evenings, and it is difficult to reserve a table.
I didn’t mention that my first meal in Bangkok is usually at 100 Mahaseth, a restaurant serving primarily Northern Thai cuisine (as was this one), because I also went to owner-chef Chalee Kader’s newer, more upscale restaurant, Wana Yook.
Chary is half Indian (his father is from Tamil Nadu) and has been a chef’s chef for years. His 100 Mahaset is where Bangkok’s top chefs go when they want a good meal. But it was with the arrival of Wanna Yuk (which has a Michelin star) that he really came into the public eye. His restaurant opened during the pandemic, so it was targeted at local Thais.
This is modern Thai food, but Thai customers know the real thing, so they don’t skimp on the seasoning. Chalee is famous for its fish-flavored dishes, but Thai customers have a high tolerance for fish, so my very sensitive wife was a little worried before going. But the food was so good that she declared that this is definitely the best modern Thai restaurant in the world. I agree.
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Deepankar Khosla is an incredible success story: he worked for ITC Hotels for nearly a decade, then moved to Bangkok and started all over again, including running a food truck. He then opened Haoma, which quickly earned a Michelin Green Star (Deepankar is big on sustainability), which is commendable, but doesn’t really help if you want to know how good the food tastes.
However, Haoma has not only received a Green Star, but also an official Michelin star for two years.
Haoma is a fine-dining, old-fashioned restaurant with great wines, attentive, knowledgeable service, and an ornate dining room. Deepankar’s cooking draws on a multitude of influences, including the nihari of Allahabad where he grew up. The night I went, Haoma was packed, and it was clear that Deepankar has hit the big time.
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He’s instantly likeable, and it helps that success hasn’t changed him at all. My son Raj knew Deepankar before he was famous and says he’s still the same kind, caring guy.
So if you want a budget holiday with great hotels and great food, it’s hard to beat Bangkok. I’m not too familiar with other countries in the Far East, but Vietnam has been getting rave reviews on social media, and there are about a dozen other similar value destinations in Asia.
So think twice before planning a holiday in any touristy part of the country: consider the East, and if you plan well in advance, you can even book one of the 14 seats at Gagan Anand’s restaurant.
What’s not to like?
News / Opinion / The Taste With Vir: Why you should consider Bangkok and other Asian destinations over domestic destinations
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